Behind
this everyday brew lies a colorful and fascinating story that
meanders its way through the social and cultural history of many
nations. According to ancient legend, tea was discovered by chance
by a Chinese Emperor in third millenium B.C. as some tea leaves
floated into his boiling pot of water from somewhere.
Whether this is fact or fiction, we
will never know. In fact, there was no written reference to tea until
the third century B.C., until a famous Chinese doctor recommended it for
increasing one's alertness. Most historians however agree that tea was
used in China long before this date.
Tea entered its 'golden age' during
the Tang Dynasty in the 7th century AD. Tea entered the age of rituals
and traditions. No longer drunk simply as a medicinal tonic, tea was taken
as much for pleasure as for its restorative powers. The preparation and
service of the liquor developed into an elaborate ceremony, while the
cultivation and processing of the leaf were tightly controlled.
Tea became important enough
during this period for a group of merchants to commission the
writer, Lu Yu, to compile the first ever book on the subject -
Classic of Tea. All tea produced in China was originally green.
However, with an increase
in trade during the Ming Dynasty (A.D. 1368 - 1644), the Chinese
growers were challenged to preserve tea's delicate qualities during
its long journeys, as far afield as Europe. The solution was the
invention of new processing methods to make black and flower-scented
teas. Ming producers found that fermentation was able to preserve
tea leaves, making them suitable for the long overseas journey.
And though Europe's first taste of tea was green, the fashion
gradually changed to black as Chinese growers altered tea production
methods to suit the logistics of distant trade.
When one looks at Europe, one is not
sure who was responsible for introducing tea there - the Dutch or the
Portuguese in the early seventeenth century, for both nations were then
actively trading in the China Seas. The Portuguese shipped China teas
to Lisbon, and from there the Dutch East India Company carried goods on
to Holland, France and Germany.
Tea's fate in Britain took
a lucky turn in 1662 when King Charles II married aPortuguese
princess. Britain's new queen was addicted to tea and carried
with her some tea as part of her dowry. As word of the new beverage
spread, more and more people wished to try it. Soon tea became
Britain's most popular drink, replacing ale at break-fast and
gin at any other time of day. Tea also became an essential part
of people's entertainment outside the home.
Luxurious tea gardens appeared all
over the country, where people from all walks of life, including royalty,
could take fresh air, drink tea, and enjoy a variety of entertainment.
The British tradition of 'after-noon tea' is normally ascribed to Anna,
the Dutchess of Bedford. She conceived the idea of having tea around four
or five in the afternoon to ward off the hunger pangs between lunch and
dinner. Soon all of fashionable London was indulging in these after-noon
gatherings to drink tea, eat sandwiches, and exchange gossip and general
conversation.
As tea consumption in Britain grew,
the balance of payment turned in favour of the Chinese. Britain came up
with an answer to correct the imbalance and trade in opium, which the
Chinese wanted. But soon trade in opium became a serious international
issue, and to secure monopoly, Britain declared war. China retaliated
by placing an embargo on all export of tea. The Opium Wars had begun.
It was inevitable that tea
would find its way to North America along with the settlers from
Europe. All over the New World, tea was drunk in the same elegant
fashion as in Europe. In colonial America, tea and the complimentary
silver and porcelain were symbols of wealth and social status.
Even the less affluent families viewed the taking of tea as a
display of their good manners. The Boston Tea Party ended America's
liking for both the British and their tea. The origins of the
trouble lay in the passing of an Act of Parliament in 1767, which
attempted to tax the American colonies.
Within two years of its passing, most
American ports were refusing to allow any dutiable goods ashore, and when
the British sent seven shiploads of tea from London, feelings ran high.
In New York and Philadelphia, demonstrations forced the ships to turn
back. In Boston, general unrest over several weeks was followed by the
boarding of the Dartmouth by a band of men disguised as Indians, to cries
of "Boston harbour - a teapot tonight."
In the course of the next
three hours, they threw 340 chests of tea overboard. The British
government's closure of Boston harbor and the arrival of British
troops on American soil marked the beginning of the War of Independence
and America's coffee-drinking tradition. World War II marked a
final blow to America's affinity for fine teas. Prior to the war,
Americans were well versed in the many varieties of tea. Imported
exclusively in the Orient, however, these teas became scarce during
the war, and were replaced with lower quality black tea from Argentina
and other open markets. Sadly, to this day, almost all tea consumed
in the United States is low-grade black. .
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